In France, Doing a Reverse Julia Child
When an Alsatian butcher handed me a free pork shoulder, I didn’t know what to do with it. But I wasn’t about to let it go to waste.
In Alsace, Elevating a Once-Scorned Grape to a New Status
When does a Sylvaner not look or taste like a Sylvaner? The winemakers at Domaine Armand Hurst, in Turckheim, have an answer to that riddle.
Eating Like a Grape Picker in Alsace
The harvest is a festive time, with celebrations in wine-producing villages and food stores offering seasonal concoctions. I tried my hand at baeckeoffe.
Why and How to Visit Verdun
With underground forts and a vast, high-tech, museum, the century-old Verdun battlefield offers lessons for today. Here’s how to structure a brief visit.
How to Find the Perfect French Vacation Rental
The recent announcement that Paris regulators plan to shut down 43,000 Airbnb listings by June will leave many travelers scrambling for alternatives. An experienced traveler offers tips to help you find them.
Savoring Alsace: A Slow Traveler Goes Beyond the Façades
Being able to experience the rhythms of daily life in a rural French village is one of the joys of visiting Alsace. Here are others.